DANISH SHORES

"The ocean is calm, inviting and free" - Simen Hestnæs

When I first thought about this trip, I didn't know much of where I was going. Literally l just picked randomly a place in Denmark's map. I knew I wanted to see seaport towns. There's something about fishing boats and the ocean that brings to my attention. Maybe deep down I always wanted to be a seaman.

Without any expectations I arrived to Esbjerg, on the west coast peninsula of Denmark. A highly industrialized port, not much to do or see, but the welcoming was impressive as I started walking through and outside the
town...

Mennesket ved Havet, Esbjerg, Denmark

Solace in a time of distress and dread,

Walking around, I see this massive monument from far away ("Man meets the Sea Monument). 9m tall white giants facing and welcoming the fishermen at sea. These majestic statues portray the meeting between the "pure" and unspoiled mankind with nature, man's innocence before rising up.

I felt small and vulnerable, but intrigued by the statue's eyes, almost as a threat. But that same brain response that was perceived as fear, was turned to excitement and motivation, a thrust to learn more about the town and what was the story behind those solitary streets near the sea and what secrets did those statue's eyes confined.

Sædding Beach, Esbjerg, Denmark

Sædding Beach, Esbjerg, Denmark

Sønderho, Fanø, Denmark

The Story of "Dorthe"

The night was falling and the winds were roaring stronger, it was quite a walk back to town, but on the way I saw a small bar filled with boat stuff and ocean ornaments, so I decided to stop for a quick beer. 
Dorthe - a 'pirate' lady with weary eyes and strong character, sitting next to me at the bar - taught me the 'danish way,
"What you see is what you get, we say what we think in a very straightforward way'.

After buying me a couple of beers she said,
'What the fuck are you doing in Esbjerg?…why are you here?‘
​She gave me her number in case 'I got into trouble“ Then we started to talk about the places she used to live in (outside Denmark), about her relationships and her family - amazing (sad looking) lady, a face I wont forget.

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

"You're looking for a moment when you feel you're as close to the soul as possible. It liberates you and allows you to help feel something very powerful" - Platon Antoniou

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

The Story of "Ivann"

Hopping to few other bars in town, I tried different danish beers. I stayed in one in particular where they were playing danish folk music. I came to the bartender and asked, which beers they had. 
Ivann - a 50+ weird looking guy at the end of the bar, long hair covering his face - told the bartender to give me "Odense" -
"stronger than Carlsberg and tastier than Tuborg” - He said.
He payed for it, so in gratitude I sat down next to him. He told me all about the danish musician 'Sebastian” while we took over the jukebox, sharing tunes I liked and songs he liked. 'Reeeespeect' he used to say every time we agreed a song.
​
​Ivann lives in the street and that night he was celebrating he earned 800Kr ($120) he shared his wealth with me buying me beers all night throughout his favorite bars. He was really happy, compared to when I first noticed him alone. I guess he just wanted some company and someone to share his thoughts. Great time, great guy!

This is not Ivann.
​I took a picture of the bar we met and found ironic
​the "Happy Hour" poster.

"Sailing on and on in silence, Flee to open ocean, wind in motion..." - Simen Hestnæs

The weather was crappy when I arrived to Fanø Island, forgot my raincoat and the winds were freezing. I took a bus to the southernmost part of the island and realized there was no transportation back to the ferry to mainland...'feel fear and go for it' I thought. 

I started walking in the rain in stunning silence, not a single person around. After a long walk, I arrived at a beach with WWII bunkers and half eaten rabbits all around. The rain was getting heavier and it was almost night time, so I found shelter back in a small town on one of the oldest restaurants in Denmark (1722).

Sønderho, Fanø, Denmark
During World War II, Fanø was part of the Atlantic Wall

The Story of "Azadeh"
At the Restaurant I met the nicest girl ever -Azadeh - 25 year old Iranian girl, massive beautiful eyes, soft voice and a great attitude! She worked at the restaurant. 

After a very expensive but delicious danish meal, Azadeh was kind enough to take me back to mainland.
She told me her story and all her struggles with racism, studying abroad, getting a work visa or any visa at all anywhere. ​We also talked about love, dreams and traveling.
I was most impressed with what she has achieved and how she overcome all those barriers; a very inspiring story. I wish her the best!

Sønderho, Fanø, Denmark

“The biggest communication problem, is we don’t listen to understand, we listen to reply” - seen on a bar’s 'specials' board

At first I had no real reason to why I wanted to do this trip; leisure? adventure? escape from reality?

The stories of the people I met found me and gave me a life lesson I will never forget. People want to be heard, tell their story, become immortal. Friendship is a global language, take your time and listen...

Sønderho, Fanø, Denmark

Sønderho, Fanø, Denmark

Finn's Bicycle, vessel in harbor.

I arrived to the next port, the northernmost town in Denmark, Skagen. This was the exact port I expected to meet, fish boats, excellent sea food & old fishermen with pipes drinking beer inside the bars. 
I met 'Finn' a retired short old man in the local beer brewery. Five minutes after I asked for my first beer, Finn told me in a very un comprehensible english “leave your bag with me, I'll give you my bike so that you can ride Skagen”

At first I was doubtful but this trip has been full of good surprises, so I accepted - I took his bike and he took my rucksack. On for a ride I went!!

Skagen, Denmark

"...to know yourself you must cast aside the illusion of convention, freely eat what the serpent offers, but never be ashamed of the knowledge you find." - Gnostic Music Doctrine

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

"I [fed] on the volt, the havoc and salt" - Simen Hestnæs​

After riding the bike for 10 minutes in freezing cold sea winds, I realized riding a bike was a terrible idea. I stopped at the train station, left the bike and walked to my next destination, a desert in Denmark!...? 

Without any transport (not in this season), I walked for about +2 hours through a cold windy forest. I tried to hitchhike, but I guess Im not hitchhiking material.
I reached a point where l was astounded by the view. Rabjerg Mile, a sand storm riding through Denmark 14kms per year, an exact metaphor for what this trip has showed me. The sands of time moving along, leaving a trail, trying to make a path somewhere and somehow, no matter what's on the way you should always leave your mark, immortality.

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

Words neither pictures cant capture the sand dunes landscape enough.
Be here, Be now, grab life by the throat - Meet people, talk to people, for they hold great gifts. You'll be surprised what you'll find, if you really listen.

I went back to Finn's, gave him his bike back and he gave me my rucksack back - we said goodbye like a father waves goodbye to a son, which I think he missed while we talked over a couple of local Skagen beers in his living room.

Finn,
Skagen, Denmark

Råbjerg Mile, Denmark

"The storm is complete, I have found what I seek...now I start to transform unaware" - Simen Hestnæs

JOIN ME NEXT: SHETLAND ISLANDS: ARCTIC ARCHIPELAGO